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Served in the U.S. Army Field Artillery and Ski Troops in WWII;
researched anti-submarine warfare for the Navy; developed wave
forecasting methods with Harold Sverdrup critical to supporting
the first successful Allied offensive in Oran, Northwest Africa,
the Pacific Theater of War, and D-Day landings. Received his PhD
from Scripps Institution of Oceanography, UCLA (1947).
Observed hydrogen bomb test, Ivy Mike, at Eniwetok Atoll from a 3’ x 3’ raft, recording bottom pressure
for a possible tsunami (1951); learned to scuba dive shortly after it was invented, while spending nine
months at sea on Operation Capricorn; initiated pioneering research on the irregularities in the earth’s
rotation, long waves, and tides; proposed idea for Project Mohole to drill through the earth’s crust;
calculated how plankton absorb nutrients from the sea by means of diffusive processes; began
training the next generation of geophysicists; elected to the National Academy of Sciences (1957).
Founded the Institute of Geophysics and Planetary Physics at Scripps Institution of Oceanography;
Founding Father of the University of California, San Diego; participated in Project Mohole that resulted
in development of “dynamic positioning” for drilling vessels using acoustic bottom transponders;
expedition documentary, “Waves Across the Pacific;” tracking storm driven waves from Antarctica
across the Pacific Ocean to Alaska, using the Floating Instrument Platform (FLIP) and enabling surf
predictions, dubbed “Father of Surf Forecasting;” used tide capsules to measure deep-sea tides before
such measurements became feasible by satellite; pioneered use of power spectra in describing wave
behavior; named California Scientist of the Year (1969).
Conducted seminal research on the ocean interior, including the classical description of internal wave
processes; pioneered the development of acoustic tomography (sound in the ocean) to study large
scale ocean properties; contributed expertise when idea of flood-limiting Venice Gates project began;
elected to the Royal Society of London (1976); developed the Garrett-Munk Spectrum, a universal model
still in use today.
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